Ups and Downs... but mostly ups

The past few days have been quite a wild adventure!
After Pisa and Luca, I had a nice, flat, straight ride up the coast in the morning. I was feeling confident, so when the coast turned mountainous, I opted to take the scenic road through Montemarcello Park to Lèrici. For some reason my map didn't show the first 250m climb that was squeezed into 5km of road. Or the second ascent of 100m in 3km. Fortunately, the road was incredibly beautiful, with panoramic views of the Ocean, montains, Viareggio (where I had come from) and La Spezia (where I was headed). Even so, when I reached my campsite at Lèrici I nearly collapsed. Fortunately, the campsite was perched above a georgeous little Mediteranean cove, and there was a ladder down to the water. I didn't even bother taking my bike clothes off before diving into the water.
The mountains surrounding the cove were completely wooded, with only the tiny villiage of Serra visible 200m above. There wasn't really a beach, the mountains just plunged straight into the ocean. There were a couple boulder-islands in the cove, so I swam out to one and contemplated my trip. I decided that the coast was much more beautiful from the water, and that this might be the time to cheat a little: there is a boat service from Lèrici to Cinque Terre to Genova.
Lèrici is the most delightful town I've been too. It is built right onto the side of the mountain, so most of the streets are actually stair-cases. All the appartments and shops are pink and yellow and orange with dark green shutters, and they are stacked on top of one another so that I can barely believe they don't just fall into the ocean. Everyone in the city and at the campeggio was sooo friendly, and I made a couple friends who gave me lots advice on the logistics of seeing Cinque Terre by boat.
Porto Vedere and Cinque Terra are really spectacular. I don't think I will even attempt to describe them, but don't worry! I took about a bjillion pictures, so I will show you when I get back. I was enjoying the area so much I actually missed the last boat to Genova, but it wasn't a problem because the train also goes there, and it was a fair bit cheaper. I got a ticket for myself and my bike, and as I was struggling to heave my bike on board, the conductor came over and offered to help. Then he offered to let me sit in the passenger seat of the (air-conditioned) engine with him. He also offered to let me drive the train, but I declined, since that seemed to require sitting on his lap. I spent the rest of the trip into Genova pleasantly enough, talking non-stop about il mio ragazzo back in the states.
When I got to Genova I was discouraged to learn that the youth hostel is actually on one of the 'hills' that surround the city. 2km and 260m of vertical later I reached the hostel. It was 35deg celcius and I would estimate 110% humidity, and starting to get dark. And there were no beds left for women. I sat down outside to collect myself and try to figure out a plan when I saw two other girls with backpacks who had also been rejected from the hostel. Marie Sophie and Armelle were travellers from Paris, and had just arrived in Italy earlier that day. We decided to try to figure something out together, but all the other options were either too expensive or too far away. At this point it was quite late and we were all absolutely exhausted. So exhausted in fact that the park benches we had been sitting on started to look pretty comfortable. We all had sleeping bags, so we ended up having a slumber party on the piazza outside the hostel, overlooking the city and the ocean. We woke up early the next morning, quite shocked at how good a night's rest we had all managed. The three of us spent the day together exploring the city, which was really fun.
This morning I hit the road again, climbing over Passo di Giovi. I had been warned that it was 'impossible' by bike, but after managing the road to the Youth Hostel it didn't look so bad. Now I've made it to Novi Ligure, home of the famous Italian cyclists Costante Girardengo and Fausto Coppi.

Al mare!

I'm back on the road, and definitely feeling stronger! All the 'hills' (cough::mountains::cough) of Siena really forced me into good shape. Yesterday I left the farm and managed 122km- all the way to the Ocean. I am camping at the Marina of Pisa. Yes, I saw the tower, and I must say it was a bit dissapointing- it's much shorter than I imagined it.
However, the area has had many pleasant suprises as well. Today I took a day-ride into Lucca, wich is yet another mideavil town. Lucca is neat though because the fortress walls that surround it have been converted into a beautiful park\bike path. You get a nice view of the city on one side and mountains on the other.
The ocean is also beautiful, if a little over-developed. Fortunately for me, I'm still on a 'farm-schedule'. At 5.30am I have the whole coast to myself! This morning I decided to relax a little after my big day yesterday. I had a private cabana with a magnificent view of the ocean. Not bad!

Happy Fourth of July!

I can't believe that my time here at the farm is almost finished; I hit the road for another week tomorrow! Just when I've finally figured out how to tell when a sheep udder is ACTUALLY empty.
Believe it or not, that has actually been the most challenging part of my daily work. Cheesemaking has been straight-forward for me, once I got used to taking directions given in a thick Tuscan accent. Herding the sheep is also suprisingly easy-
Things sheep don't like: being left behind.
Things sheep like: looking at other sheep butts.

Saturday I helped Claudio at the Rosia market, which was really fun. I'm feeling more and more confident with the language and also, I met a group of eight American 'interns' who work at a nearby farm, Spannocchia. Its a HUGE agriturismo opperation, focussed on showing foreigners what Tuscan food and farming is all about. Their main product is an heirloom species of boar, but the farm\hotel is completely self-sustaining.
Anyway, the interns invited me up to Spannocchia for a 4th of July party. Their farm is only about 8km down the road (plus another 3km up a strada bianca - dirt road - even steeper than ours) so I could ride my bike there. It was a wonderful evening. The farm had brought in all sorts of traditional american cuisine. AKA hotdogs, burgers, potato chips, potato salad, sweet baby rays BBQ sauce, rice krispie treats, apple pie, and of course watermellon. The intern coordinator even put together an 'America Mix' which featured every song that mentions the name of an American city. Lastly, we had sparklers and bottle rockets after watching a (Tuscan) sunset.
It was great to be reminded of home, especially on the holliday, and it was nice to be around other young people of my culture for a change. However, the party also made me really greatful for the experience I have had with Maddalena and Claudio. Its so easy to fall into all the tourist traps here: places designed to make Americans feel comfortable. I am definitely spending a fair bit of time outside my comfort zone & while it is often stressful, I am really lucky to have found a rout off the beaten path.

On the farm!

Today was my third day on Maddalena and Claudio's farm. The farm is absolutely beautiful. We're located in the hills outside Siena; the farm itself is about 2km up a dirt road and an ENORMOUSE hill- definitely FAR off the tourist trail. Maddalena and Claudio live in an old farmhouse and I have my own room downstairs. The garden outside overlooks the pastures and surrounding forests and mountains. I really can't think of a more beautiful place, and the family is absolutely wonderful. They host a lot of WWOOFers, so they're welcoming and patient with my Italian and general lack of agricultural knowledge.

Already I've settled into a routine. My typical day looks something like this: (Shoutout to the Livengoods- I ACTUALLY have country-folk duties!!)
5.30 wake up
5.45 breakfast & coffee (biscotti and cafelatte- expresso with sheep milk)
6.00 Claudio and I milk the sheep (all 117 of them) and then I take them to pasture- herd them through the forest to the open fields with the help of the three GIANT sheep dogs, Balu, Maya and Bella
9.00 Coffee break
9.30 Help Claudio with cheesemaking in the caseificio. He makes cheese twice a week and other days it's necessary to turn, wash, oil or move the cheese. We also do other odd jobs around the farm during this time
12.30 Help Nonna (grandma) make lunch: always something very filling! Usually includes pasta, bread, wine, lots of fresh cheese & eggs, more bread, more pasta, more coffee.
1.00 EAT
2.00 Siesta. It's the hottest part of the day so everyone takes a couple hours to digest lunch
4.00 milk the sheep again and take them out to pasture again
6.00 I'm free, so I have been taking the opportunity to explore the area on my bike. Claudio has lots of good recomendations for the most scenic or interesting routes. The hills around Siena are really just stunningly beautiful- although I certainly pay for it! So far the shortest possible loop route I've found is 30km long with 400m of vertical.
8.30 Dinner. Again, something delicious & home cooked with at least a half gallon of olive oil. (I've been helping and watching in the kitchen and I have discovered the true secret to Italian cooking- No dish allowed that isn't at least 20% olive oil by weight) Fresh vegetables from the garden, second helpings of pasta that you are not allowed to refuse, more fresh ricotta cheese, parmagiano on everything, a fourth helping of bread to soak up the pomodoro sauce that you are not allowed to leave on your plate, more wine, and then cafe to give you just enough energy to stand up and walk to bed before...
10.00 collapse into bed.

Tourist Land

The past couple days I have been taking my time, stopping in some of the biggest cities on my itinerary. I spent a day in Bologna, 2 days in Firenze, and now a day in Siena. The cities are VERY different from the countryside. Here its possible to get around using English, and there are tourists EVERYWHERE. There is certainly a good reason for it though; the cities are really fabulous.

In Firenze I met a couple fellow travellers and we saw the Duomo, Museo Uffizi, and Porte Veccio together. Ive been staying in urban campgrounds, which are great places to meet other travellers and catch the most important World Cup games. Ive also met a few other cyclists on tour, who have recommended routs to me.

A couple of guys from Holland are following a popular itinerary for bikers, and they assured me that their route was the flattest and most beautiful. I took their advice in planning my course through Chiani (famouse wine, food country between Firenze and Siena). They got the 'most scenic' part right, but their route was CERTAINLY not flat. The road followed mountain ridges with panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside, and LOTS of up and down. I'm amazed at just how mountainous Toscana is. Much of the land (I estimate 75%) isnt actually farmed, but forested, because its just too steep.

Today I'm resting my legs in Siena, which is just too cool. Much as I pride myself on my aptitude for maps and mazes, I reckon I have spent more than half my time here completely lost. The city is literally a mideval maze of narrow streets and secret passageways. The streets are so narrow you cant see the sun, which keeps the city cool, but also makes it impossible to stay oriented.

Tomorrow I will be arriving at my farm, which Im looking forward to. Being on the road has been so exciting, with suprises every day, but I think it will be a nice change to stay in one place for a bit.

Suprise Party

Near Bologna, I was riding through castle country when I met another cyclist, Nino. We met at the top of this mountain where there is an old castle-villiage. He knew heaps about Italian history, and regularly biked in that area, so he gave me a mini tour of the village then asked if I wanted to see an even better castle, MonteVeglio. I was pretty tired, but he was so nice I didnt want to refuse. After the second castle, he asked if I would like to stay with his family for the night and go to a festa with him. His accent was pretty thick, so I couldnt understand everything he said, but I agreed anyway- you know how I can't turn down offers from strangers.
When we got to his house all of a sudden he was in a big hurry and I couldnt quite figure out why. His brother arrived and drove us to the festa. When we got inside this big old building we walked into a room with about 70 people all sitting around one big table. The lights were out and everyone was whispering. We sat down and everyone was hushing everyone. Then about 2 minutes later, an old man walked in and the lights cam on, everyone jumped up and yelled BUON COMPLEANO!! I think I was just about as suprised as the birthday signore.
Everyone started eating and drinking right away and everyone, especially all the old men, wanted to meet me and give me more wine. The food was some of the most incredible Ive ever had. Were in the region of Italy famous for the fresh cherries (in season now) parmesano cheese and the sausage. I just couldnt believe how welcoming and happy everyone was to have me, constantly forcing more food on me and giving me complimenti for traveling by bike.
After the first course a couple of the birthday signora(80 years old!)s best friends (Nino included) stood up and read original poems about him. They were so dramatic, with lots of crazy hand motions and toasts throughout. (I would understand a bit, then be confused by a stanza, then everyone would crack up.) Then there was more food, more wine, dessert, more wine...

Il mio primo amico italiano si chiama Amerigo

Hello everyone!

I feel like so much has happened over the past couple days. Ive filled almost 20 pages in my journal already, so Ill just post the highlights here.

My first night I stayed in a B&B in Lodi. I was exhausted from the plane trip and the stress of figuring out a new road system and comunicating in Italian. The owners of the B&B were great though. In the morning it was raining a little and so we chatted for a long time over breakfast. The father gave me about a million maps of the area, including one with all the piste ciclabile (bike paths). Just about every major tourist town has a bike map of the area, which is great.

The countryside is every bit as beautiful as I imagined it. There are so many cute little towns that I have to pass many of them by or I would never get anywhere. Im going is much slower than I did on my tours in the States, but the roads are good and drivers are not nearly as crazy as everyone promised me they would be. Also, I am DEFINITELY off the beaten tourist path: Im communicating almost exclusively in Italian, so my language skills are improving quickly.

My first full day on the road I made it as far as Busseto (home of Verdi) by mid-afternoon. I stopped for my first gelato, and got to chatting with two friendly old guys outside the bar. One of them, Amerigo, invited me to dinner with he and his friends. You all know how I cant refuse generous offers from strangers, so of course I took him up on it. It was a WONDERFUL night. Amerigo, Elena, Archimede, and his wife (whose name I cant remember) went to a pizzeria and then drove to Salsomaggiore, which is a tourist town famous for its thermal baths. It was much easier for me to understand the ladies; both Archimede and Amerigo had rather thick dialects. Amerigo and Elena offered to put me up for the night, which was extremely generous.

The next morning I battled on & off thundershowers as I biked along a pista ciclabile that follows the Po River. Everyone who was worried about my safety will be happy to know: I met to very friendly Civil Safety Servicemen along the way and they gave me their number & insisted that I call if or if not I was ever in danger.

Last night I stayed in Reggio nell'Emiglia. The youth hostel there is in an old monestary, which was very cool. In the morning there was a market, so I bought a couple things that will make me a bit less conspicuos, aka more fashionable, when Im in the cities.

Today Ive been biking through Castle Country South and West of Bologna. Im tackling the first hills of the trip but also seeing many more cyclists.

It turns out that getting an internet connection is a bit more of a challenge than I reckoned it would be. The Italians require much more serious identity verification than Americans do.

I have so much more to say, but Im about to run out of time on this computer. Id love to hear from everyone!