Today was my third day on Maddalena and Claudio's farm. The farm is absolutely beautiful. We're located in the hills outside Siena; the farm itself is about 2km up a dirt road and an ENORMOUSE hill- definitely FAR off the tourist trail. Maddalena and Claudio live in an old farmhouse and I have my own room downstairs. The garden outside overlooks the pastures and surrounding forests and mountains. I really can't think of a more beautiful place, and the family is absolutely wonderful. They host a lot of WWOOFers, so they're welcoming and patient with my Italian and general lack of agricultural knowledge.
Already I've settled into a routine. My typical day looks something like this: (Shoutout to the Livengoods- I ACTUALLY have country-folk duties!!)
5.30 wake up
5.45 breakfast & coffee (biscotti and cafelatte- expresso with sheep milk)
6.00 Claudio and I milk the sheep (all 117 of them) and then I take them to pasture- herd them through the forest to the open fields with the help of the three GIANT sheep dogs, Balu, Maya and Bella
9.00 Coffee break
9.30 Help Claudio with cheesemaking in the caseificio. He makes cheese twice a week and other days it's necessary to turn, wash, oil or move the cheese. We also do other odd jobs around the farm during this time
12.30 Help Nonna (grandma) make lunch: always something very filling! Usually includes pasta, bread, wine, lots of fresh cheese & eggs, more bread, more pasta, more coffee.
1.00 EAT
2.00 Siesta. It's the hottest part of the day so everyone takes a couple hours to digest lunch
4.00 milk the sheep again and take them out to pasture again
6.00 I'm free, so I have been taking the opportunity to explore the area on my bike. Claudio has lots of good recomendations for the most scenic or interesting routes. The hills around Siena are really just stunningly beautiful- although I certainly pay for it! So far the shortest possible loop route I've found is 30km long with 400m of vertical.
8.30 Dinner. Again, something delicious & home cooked with at least a half gallon of olive oil. (I've been helping and watching in the kitchen and I have discovered the true secret to Italian cooking- No dish allowed that isn't at least 20% olive oil by weight) Fresh vegetables from the garden, second helpings of pasta that you are not allowed to refuse, more fresh ricotta cheese, parmagiano on everything, a fourth helping of bread to soak up the pomodoro sauce that you are not allowed to leave on your plate, more wine, and then cafe to give you just enough energy to stand up and walk to bed before...
10.00 collapse into bed.
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Tourist Land
The past couple days I have been taking my time, stopping in some of the biggest cities on my itinerary. I spent a day in Bologna, 2 days in Firenze, and now a day in Siena. The cities are VERY different from the countryside. Here its possible to get around using English, and there are tourists EVERYWHERE. There is certainly a good reason for it though; the cities are really fabulous.
In Firenze I met a couple fellow travellers and we saw the Duomo, Museo Uffizi, and Porte Veccio together. Ive been staying in urban campgrounds, which are great places to meet other travellers and catch the most important World Cup games. Ive also met a few other cyclists on tour, who have recommended routs to me.
A couple of guys from Holland are following a popular itinerary for bikers, and they assured me that their route was the flattest and most beautiful. I took their advice in planning my course through Chiani (famouse wine, food country between Firenze and Siena). They got the 'most scenic' part right, but their route was CERTAINLY not flat. The road followed mountain ridges with panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside, and LOTS of up and down. I'm amazed at just how mountainous Toscana is. Much of the land (I estimate 75%) isnt actually farmed, but forested, because its just too steep.
Today I'm resting my legs in Siena, which is just too cool. Much as I pride myself on my aptitude for maps and mazes, I reckon I have spent more than half my time here completely lost. The city is literally a mideval maze of narrow streets and secret passageways. The streets are so narrow you cant see the sun, which keeps the city cool, but also makes it impossible to stay oriented.
Tomorrow I will be arriving at my farm, which Im looking forward to. Being on the road has been so exciting, with suprises every day, but I think it will be a nice change to stay in one place for a bit.
In Firenze I met a couple fellow travellers and we saw the Duomo, Museo Uffizi, and Porte Veccio together. Ive been staying in urban campgrounds, which are great places to meet other travellers and catch the most important World Cup games. Ive also met a few other cyclists on tour, who have recommended routs to me.
A couple of guys from Holland are following a popular itinerary for bikers, and they assured me that their route was the flattest and most beautiful. I took their advice in planning my course through Chiani (famouse wine, food country between Firenze and Siena). They got the 'most scenic' part right, but their route was CERTAINLY not flat. The road followed mountain ridges with panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside, and LOTS of up and down. I'm amazed at just how mountainous Toscana is. Much of the land (I estimate 75%) isnt actually farmed, but forested, because its just too steep.
Today I'm resting my legs in Siena, which is just too cool. Much as I pride myself on my aptitude for maps and mazes, I reckon I have spent more than half my time here completely lost. The city is literally a mideval maze of narrow streets and secret passageways. The streets are so narrow you cant see the sun, which keeps the city cool, but also makes it impossible to stay oriented.
Tomorrow I will be arriving at my farm, which Im looking forward to. Being on the road has been so exciting, with suprises every day, but I think it will be a nice change to stay in one place for a bit.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Suprise Party
Near Bologna, I was riding through castle country when I met another cyclist, Nino. We met at the top of this mountain where there is an old castle-villiage. He knew heaps about Italian history, and regularly biked in that area, so he gave me a mini tour of the village then asked if I wanted to see an even better castle, MonteVeglio. I was pretty tired, but he was so nice I didnt want to refuse. After the second castle, he asked if I would like to stay with his family for the night and go to a festa with him. His accent was pretty thick, so I couldnt understand everything he said, but I agreed anyway- you know how I can't turn down offers from strangers.
When we got to his house all of a sudden he was in a big hurry and I couldnt quite figure out why. His brother arrived and drove us to the festa. When we got inside this big old building we walked into a room with about 70 people all sitting around one big table. The lights were out and everyone was whispering. We sat down and everyone was hushing everyone. Then about 2 minutes later, an old man walked in and the lights cam on, everyone jumped up and yelled BUON COMPLEANO!! I think I was just about as suprised as the birthday signore.
Everyone started eating and drinking right away and everyone, especially all the old men, wanted to meet me and give me more wine. The food was some of the most incredible Ive ever had. Were in the region of Italy famous for the fresh cherries (in season now) parmesano cheese and the sausage. I just couldnt believe how welcoming and happy everyone was to have me, constantly forcing more food on me and giving me complimenti for traveling by bike.
After the first course a couple of the birthday signora(80 years old!)s best friends (Nino included) stood up and read original poems about him. They were so dramatic, with lots of crazy hand motions and toasts throughout. (I would understand a bit, then be confused by a stanza, then everyone would crack up.) Then there was more food, more wine, dessert, more wine...
When we got to his house all of a sudden he was in a big hurry and I couldnt quite figure out why. His brother arrived and drove us to the festa. When we got inside this big old building we walked into a room with about 70 people all sitting around one big table. The lights were out and everyone was whispering. We sat down and everyone was hushing everyone. Then about 2 minutes later, an old man walked in and the lights cam on, everyone jumped up and yelled BUON COMPLEANO!! I think I was just about as suprised as the birthday signore.
Everyone started eating and drinking right away and everyone, especially all the old men, wanted to meet me and give me more wine. The food was some of the most incredible Ive ever had. Were in the region of Italy famous for the fresh cherries (in season now) parmesano cheese and the sausage. I just couldnt believe how welcoming and happy everyone was to have me, constantly forcing more food on me and giving me complimenti for traveling by bike.
After the first course a couple of the birthday signora(80 years old!)s best friends (Nino included) stood up and read original poems about him. They were so dramatic, with lots of crazy hand motions and toasts throughout. (I would understand a bit, then be confused by a stanza, then everyone would crack up.) Then there was more food, more wine, dessert, more wine...
Friday, June 18, 2010
Il mio primo amico italiano si chiama Amerigo
Hello everyone!
I feel like so much has happened over the past couple days. Ive filled almost 20 pages in my journal already, so Ill just post the highlights here.
My first night I stayed in a B&B in Lodi. I was exhausted from the plane trip and the stress of figuring out a new road system and comunicating in Italian. The owners of the B&B were great though. In the morning it was raining a little and so we chatted for a long time over breakfast. The father gave me about a million maps of the area, including one with all the piste ciclabile (bike paths). Just about every major tourist town has a bike map of the area, which is great.
The countryside is every bit as beautiful as I imagined it. There are so many cute little towns that I have to pass many of them by or I would never get anywhere. Im going is much slower than I did on my tours in the States, but the roads are good and drivers are not nearly as crazy as everyone promised me they would be. Also, I am DEFINITELY off the beaten tourist path: Im communicating almost exclusively in Italian, so my language skills are improving quickly.
My first full day on the road I made it as far as Busseto (home of Verdi) by mid-afternoon. I stopped for my first gelato, and got to chatting with two friendly old guys outside the bar. One of them, Amerigo, invited me to dinner with he and his friends. You all know how I cant refuse generous offers from strangers, so of course I took him up on it. It was a WONDERFUL night. Amerigo, Elena, Archimede, and his wife (whose name I cant remember) went to a pizzeria and then drove to Salsomaggiore, which is a tourist town famous for its thermal baths. It was much easier for me to understand the ladies; both Archimede and Amerigo had rather thick dialects. Amerigo and Elena offered to put me up for the night, which was extremely generous.
The next morning I battled on & off thundershowers as I biked along a pista ciclabile that follows the Po River. Everyone who was worried about my safety will be happy to know: I met to very friendly Civil Safety Servicemen along the way and they gave me their number & insisted that I call if or if not I was ever in danger.
Last night I stayed in Reggio nell'Emiglia. The youth hostel there is in an old monestary, which was very cool. In the morning there was a market, so I bought a couple things that will make me a bit less conspicuos, aka more fashionable, when Im in the cities.
Today Ive been biking through Castle Country South and West of Bologna. Im tackling the first hills of the trip but also seeing many more cyclists.
It turns out that getting an internet connection is a bit more of a challenge than I reckoned it would be. The Italians require much more serious identity verification than Americans do.
I have so much more to say, but Im about to run out of time on this computer. Id love to hear from everyone!
I feel like so much has happened over the past couple days. Ive filled almost 20 pages in my journal already, so Ill just post the highlights here.
My first night I stayed in a B&B in Lodi. I was exhausted from the plane trip and the stress of figuring out a new road system and comunicating in Italian. The owners of the B&B were great though. In the morning it was raining a little and so we chatted for a long time over breakfast. The father gave me about a million maps of the area, including one with all the piste ciclabile (bike paths). Just about every major tourist town has a bike map of the area, which is great.
The countryside is every bit as beautiful as I imagined it. There are so many cute little towns that I have to pass many of them by or I would never get anywhere. Im going is much slower than I did on my tours in the States, but the roads are good and drivers are not nearly as crazy as everyone promised me they would be. Also, I am DEFINITELY off the beaten tourist path: Im communicating almost exclusively in Italian, so my language skills are improving quickly.
My first full day on the road I made it as far as Busseto (home of Verdi) by mid-afternoon. I stopped for my first gelato, and got to chatting with two friendly old guys outside the bar. One of them, Amerigo, invited me to dinner with he and his friends. You all know how I cant refuse generous offers from strangers, so of course I took him up on it. It was a WONDERFUL night. Amerigo, Elena, Archimede, and his wife (whose name I cant remember) went to a pizzeria and then drove to Salsomaggiore, which is a tourist town famous for its thermal baths. It was much easier for me to understand the ladies; both Archimede and Amerigo had rather thick dialects. Amerigo and Elena offered to put me up for the night, which was extremely generous.
The next morning I battled on & off thundershowers as I biked along a pista ciclabile that follows the Po River. Everyone who was worried about my safety will be happy to know: I met to very friendly Civil Safety Servicemen along the way and they gave me their number & insisted that I call if or if not I was ever in danger.
Last night I stayed in Reggio nell'Emiglia. The youth hostel there is in an old monestary, which was very cool. In the morning there was a market, so I bought a couple things that will make me a bit less conspicuos, aka more fashionable, when Im in the cities.
Today Ive been biking through Castle Country
It turns out that getting an internet connection is a bit more of a challenge than I reckoned it would be. The Italians require much more serious identity verification than Americans do.
I have so much more to say, but Im about to run out of time on this computer. Id love to hear from everyone!
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Knock on wood
I made it into Milan trouble free, even had 3 window seats! My bike survived the trip (and a TSA inspection) in perfect condition. I am staying in Lodi tonight, which is around 30km outside Milan. I will try to write a little more once I find a place and get settled. Just wanted everyone to know I survived
Friday, June 11, 2010
Three Days to go
Ciao tutti!
Many of you have expressed interest (or concern) for me this summer. I thought I could keep everyone posted on my progress here. This weekend I'll be packing and boxing my bike up. I'm scheduled to depart Monday afternoon: Cleveland to Newark to Frankfurt to Milan.
Many of you have expressed interest (or concern) for me this summer. I thought I could keep everyone posted on my progress here. This weekend I'll be packing and boxing my bike up. I'm scheduled to depart Monday afternoon: Cleveland to Newark to Frankfurt to Milan.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)